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The Dining Guy - Food, Fun and David
(click for bio & past articles)

Maverick

3316 17th Street (between Mission & Valencia)
San Francisco, California 94110
(415) 415-863-3061
www.sfmaverick.com

Cuisine: American
Loved: service, fresh coffee, intimate atmosphere and cool bathroom
To Die For: Texan migas, stuffed chicken breast, pecan-crusted French toast
Prices: $$-$$$ (Moderate-expensive)
Hours: Lunch: Tuesday through Friday 11:30 – 2:30 pm; Brunch: Saturday & Sunday
11:00 am - 3:00 pm; Dinner Monday through Sunday 5:30 pm – 11 pm
Noise Level: High
Service: Excellent!
Romantic: Yes
Reservations: Accepted, but walk-ins accepted
Good for Kids: No
Good to Know: gift certificates available, wine bar open between lunch and dinner
Recommended / Rating: 4 Stars (0=Don’t Bother to 5=Highly Recommend)


One of the great things about living in San Francisco is having a great group of friends who love to eat out. Take my friend John, for instance. On a recent rainy Thursday evening, John and I needed to discuss some business and decided to have dinner at Maverick, a Mission restaurant he’s been “singing the praises” of for weeks and weeks. I’m glad he did.

Chef Scott Youkilis and Wine Director Michael Pierce have created one of the best restaurants in the city, with delicious food, impeccable service and a cozy atmosphere. Previously, the dynamic duo worked together at Sociale in Laurel Heights, but knew they wanted to open their own restaurant.

“We wanted to create a relaxing space where you can come after work and have a glass of wine and eat some great food,” says Pierce. “I think we’ve really taken old classics and added a different spin to them in a really fun, no-attitude atmosphere.”

Atmosphere
In a small space in the Mission, formerly occupied by Limon, Pierce and Youkilis worked with interior designer Jen Jordan of Jordan Designs to create a cozy space with tall wood-framed windows, dark chocolate brown and warm pumpkin-colored walls, polished wood floors, and one of the best restaurant bathrooms I’ve ever had the pleasure of using. “The entire renovation took about two months,” says Pierce. “We added new windows, floors, walls, and a completely new bathroom because, frankly, the old one was a big mess.”

The result is comfortably elegant and modern, although I did find the noise level a bit loud due to the birthday party at the next table. Before ordering our meal, we decided to have what I like to call the three champagne tasting menu ($11) consisting of a dry Prosecco from Italy, a tart Michigan Brut Rose, and a Gruet Blanc de Blancs. Of the three, I liked the Prosecco’s apple and pear dryness. The other two didn’t do much for me, not because they were poor choices, rather, I was too distracted by the drunken patrons sounding like a gaggle of geese honking at the previously mentioned birthday party table.  

The Food
With monthly menu changes, Chef Scott Youkilis and his staff strive to serve American classics with a twist. Their menu succeeds beautifully. While I didn’t try the buffalo wings made from frog’s legs, I loved the fresh simplicity of the baby beet salad with organic golden, chiogga, red beets, shaved pecorino cheese, and horseradish vinaigrette ($8). Other “first plates” include a tangy California citrus salad with Satsuma tangerines, blood oranges, watercress, and a Meyer lemon vinaigrette ($8) and Baltimore crab fluffs with succulent fried lump blue crab meat, micro celery, and tartar sauce ($11).

As for entrees, the stuffed chicken breast with Hedgehog mushrooms, collard greens, grits, and gravy ($17) was moist and tender. The Creekstone Farms grilled ribeye steak, with smashed fingerling potatoes, broccolini, and bordelaise sauce was juicy and quite filling. Other entrees include root vegetable stew with a Kabocha squash bowl, roasted celery root, parsnips, turnips, and green lentils ($15) and a succulent grilled pork tenderloin with Boston baked beans and butternut squash ($19).

Since dinner was so enjoyable, I decided to have brunch the following Sunday with several of my friends. The coffee was some of the best I’ve ever had, aromatic and strong. The Texan migas with scrambled eggs, tortilla strips, tomatoes, roasted chilies, queso fresco, pico de gallo, and home fries ($8) were tangy and delicious, with just the right amount of heat from the pico de gallo. And you should not leave until trying the pecan-crusted French toast with bacon and warm Vermont maple syrup ($7). Its sweetness is the perfect wake-up dish for a lazy weekend afternoon. Other brunch items include a fried oyster po’ boy sandwich ($8), a roast turkey sandwich ($7) and fresh fruit and cheese plate ($8).  

If you’ve been looking for a fun wine bar or a great new place to have brunch, lunch, or dinner, Maverick is one of the best new restaurants in the city that should not be missed.



Bio & Past Articles

Past Articles

Betty's List Restaurant Review
Columnist David Grabstald.

An enthusiastic freelance writer, editor and copywriter with marketing, media and daily newspaper experience, David serves as senior food critic for Betty's List. His articles have been published by Macy's Westbound, Mervyn's, The New Filmore, SF Examiner, Marina Times, North Texas Daily, And Baby Magazine and others. He is an experienced writer of grant proposals, documentation plans, feasibility reports, press releases, employee procedure manuals and other formats. David has written news scripts for NBC and produced video packages for the Irving Community Television Network. David can be reached at dgrabstald@gmail.com. His website is http://davidgrabstald.blogspot.com/